The Saint’s Big Day

The ladies lean out their windows as they hear the band approaching. They rest their elbows on pillows on the windowsill. Some share the space with a child. Each clutches a quarter, or a dime, or a handful of change to toss into the trays of the girls collecting for the feast. They wave to one another and offer opinions as to when the parade will pass beneath their windows. “It will be here soon,” a mother says, “maybe a couple of minutes more.”

The sound of the tubas coming closer makes the children giddy. “Be careful,” a mother says,”you’ll fall out the window.”

Finally, the men who collected for this celebration—it’s May and it’s for St. Michael—come into view. Each wears his best suit with a “committee” button pinned on his lapel. (See Celebrating a Saint.) The band follows.

Eight young men carry the statue of the saint as it makes its way behind the band. The priest leading the statue walks mostly backward so he can bless the saint every now and then. On the sidewalk, the girls collect the coins raining from windows.

Members of various church organizations march behind the saint. And finally, bringing up the rear, are the black-clad nonnas, marching in their no-nonsense oxfords. Each clutches a rosary and periodically makes an elaborate sign of the cross, ending with a kiss on a finger raised in the direction of the statue.

“Mama, Mama,” the ladies in the windows shout. “Nonna, nonna,” the children join in. And the nonnas can’t help acknowledging them. They elbow one another to make sure that each sees the greeting she receives, and interrupt their discussion about the best way to make a pork roast.

Then a nonna’s smile fades as a perceived injustice dawns on her. “Look, ” she says, “the kids from the grammar school are closer to the front than we are.”

“The Sodality is walking almost right behind the saint!” says another as she pauses to make a quick sign of the cross, followed by an elaborate kiss. “There are too many groups in front of us. We should be closer to the Saint, not following every group.”

” I wouldn’t mind if we followed the Rosary Society,” says a nonna. “But, we’re following the Holy Name Society. We’re walking behind the men’s group!”

A nonna crossly crosses herself, offers the requisite kiss, and waves a silencing hand to her grandchildren who continue to call to her from the window.

“We have to move up next year,” another says. “My husband is on the committee. We get together and we ask him. Okay?” They are silent for a while, until they smell the generously spiced pork roasting on a makeshift barbecue. “And if he doesn’t agree … “

Another interrupts, “No porchetta for him!”

Porchetta or Roast Pork

Serves six to eight

• One 4-pound boneless pork loin, tied with butcher’s twine

Ingredients for the rub

• 1 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
• 1 teaspoon fennel seeds
• 2 teaspoons grated lemon rind
• 1 tablespoon garlic, thinly sliced

Ingredients for the herbs

• 4 sprigs fresh sage
• 4 sprigs fresh rosemary
• 4 sprigs fresh basil

Ingredients for the gravy

• 1 to 1/12 cups water
• 1/4 cup heavy cream
• Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.
2. Dry pork; set aside 10 minutes
3. Mix together all rub ingredients.
4. Rub into pork.
5. On a roasting rack, insert herbs — stems and all — on the roast and under twine.
6. Place roast, fat-side-up on the rack in a roasting pan.
7. Roast 2 hours, or until a meat thermometer registers 170 degrees.
8. Remove roast to serving platter; cover loosely with foil 15 minutes.

Gravy

1. Stir flour into drippings in roasting pan; simmer 8 minutes.
2. Add water; stir to dislodge bits left on roasting pan; simmer 5 minutes
3. Add cream; bring to a simmer.
4. Serve.